Frequently Asked Questions

 

    What is the basic process?


        DAY 1


        Remove carpet

        Remove carpet staples and tack strips

        Fill in holes with wood filler

        Sand floor with vacuum

        Staining, if needed


        DAY 2


        Apply sealer coat (quick-dry oil sealer or non-yellowing clear water-base) and one coat of finish


        DAY 3


        Screen (sand finish to make smooth)

        Last two coats of finish applied (buff between coats)

     

    Will there be a lot of dust? 

    No, but it will be virtually dust-free and clean-up is taken seriously

     

    Do we need to move out? 

    No, today’s finishes are water-bourne urethane is better than the oil-modified urethane (polyurethane).  Three hours after we leave, the floor is walkable throughout each step of our process.  In 24 hours, 90% cured.  In one week, 100% cured.  Competitors will cure between 1-2 weeks.  Safely allowing you to move furniture back in, one day after job is completed. 

     

    Why oil-based? 

    Brings out the patina, not as much grain-raise (splinters) and more durable.  You can wash it like a tile floor.  Totally water-proof.  Also urine-proof.   The product we recommend uses a UV-blocker.

     

    How long will it take? 

    It depends.  The average refinishing job takes several days.  Complete installations could take a week or longer.  Delivered wood “acclimates” to your environment (becomes the moisture content and temperature of your environment). If you do not let wood acclimate, it could absorb moisture and expand after installation, leading to buckling and cupping.  If wood is not acclimated to a cold environment, it could shrink, leading to gaps. 

     

    How do I control the moisture content? 

    You want to maintain between 35-50 percent moisture.  Warm-air humidifiers in the winter, air conditioning in the summer.  Especially with hard woods or planks.

     

    What about urine stains?

    These generally will not sand out.  Replace boards individually, or stain floor dark using enzymes to eliminate odor and reduce the stain color, also we sand at an angle to lighten up or remove the stain.  In humidity, odors will return without enzyme use. Sunlight or UV damage will oxidize certain types of wood after time.  Some woods cannot be matched for that reason.  Recommended complete sanding instead.

     

    Will these fumes hurt my children? 

    Low VOC finishes are considered non-toxic for children and pets.  We offer “green” finishes with very low VOC.

     

    What about dust-free sandless options? 

    A chemical is used to strip your floor.  Any unevenness will NOT be flattened out, nor can any damage be removed.  A liquid acrylic wax is then added.  Every footprint, every mark shows up.  It’s like a wax coating that needs constant maintenance.  It will not hold up, appearance-wise.  Only a new application will restore it to it’s Day 1 beauty.    (pros and cons of acrylic waxes)

     

    What if I just want the floor to look pretty? 

    Screen-and-Coat (light sanding of the finish only, not the wood).  Second option is Refinish.  No damage of wood is removed with screen-and-coat, no color is changed.

     

    How do I maintain my floor?

      • Place rugs at entrances to protect floor from scratches.
      • Keep potted plants off a wood floor.
      • Put plastic or fabric-faced glides under the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching.
      • Wipe up food and other spills right away, using a dampened or wet cloth.
      • Vacuum regularly, as often as you vacuum carpets, or when you notice that your floors are dirty. Use a brush attachment.  Make sure that no metal parts come in contact with the floor because they will scratch it.  Use the bare floor setting. You can also sweep with a soft broom, or use a dust mop, but do not use a household dust treatment or floor polish as this may cause your floor to become slick and will dull the finish.
      • Use a sponge mop, not a string mop.   Mop in the direction of the wood grain (parallel to the way the boards run) or you will leave streaks on the floor.
        Never use an abrasive pad or cleaning compound as this will dull your finish.
      • Do not use other cleaning products on your wood floor. Do not use an oil soap. Do not use furniture cleaning products or polishes.  Do not put wax on it. Wax is very slippery and won’t benefit your floor.   Cleaning with soaps or detergents is also not recommended.  We include a recipe for a homemade cleaning solution.

     

    SPECIAL TIPS

    Different woods have different degrees of hardness, however, even the hardest woods with the toughest finishes will scratch and dent. Use dirt-trapping, walk-off mats at all exterior doors to help prevent dirt, grit and sand from getting inside the building. Throw rugs or small sections of carpet just inside the entrances are also helpful. Dirt and grit are any floor’s worst enemy and that includes car-pets and vinyl floors as well as wood.

    Put fabric or felt-faced glides on the legs of your furniture including pieces you do not expect to move. They allow furniture to be moved easily without scuffing the floor. You can get them at hardware or building supply stores. Clean the glides regularly because grit can become embedded in them. Some furniture may require barrel-type roller casters as ball-type casters may cause damage. Area rugs are a smart investment for high traffic areas, especially under dining tables and chairs.

    Rolling office chairs should have area rugs under anywhere that they roll. Do not use the protective rubber mats with protrusions on the bottom of them. They will make a pattern of dents on the floor.

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